Winter Soldier arm made with silicone and 3D printing by @henrycreations
Winter Soldier arm made with silicone and 3D printing by @henrycreations

Materials for props and set dressing: molds, resins, foams and thermoplastics

Making professional props and set dressing requires materials that combine lightness, durability and a level of detail that can fool the camera. The typical process starts with a silicone mold that captures the shape of the master, continues with casting in polyurethane resin or filling with lightweight foam, and finishes with a surface treatment in thermoplastic, vinyl or silicone paint. At Feroca you'll find all the materials for each of these stages, whether you're producing a single film prop or manufacturing in series for an exhibition or audiovisual production.

Molds for props: tin silicones

To capture the geometry of a master before reproducing it in resin or foam, condensation silicones offer an excellent price-to-quality ratio. They reproduce fine textures, don't require release agent on most surfaces and are compatible with polyurethane resins, plaster and foams.

Molds for props: platinum silicones

Platinum silicones provide greater dimensional stability, no inhibition issues and a longer mold life. They are the usual choice when the prop requires many reproductions or when working with fast-curing epoxy or polyurethane resins. Some formulations also allow you to simulate soft materials — skin, flesh, fabrics — directly in the final piece.

Polyurethane resins for rigid props

Once the mold is ready, polyurethane resin is the material that gives the prop its body. Choose the formulation based on the weight you can afford, the resistance you need and the working time available. Low-viscosity resins replicate very fine textures and semi-rigid ones withstand impacts without chipping, making them perfect for armor and prop weapons.

Polyurethane foams: lightweight props and fillings

Thor-Mandalorian helmet made in resin and 3D printing by @henrycreations
Thor-Mandalorian helmet made in resin and 3D printing by @henrycreations

Polyurethane foams let you make props with a very low weight without sacrificing surface rigidity or detail. High-density rigid foam is perfect for pieces that appear in close-up, while flexible foam is ideal for filling the interior of articulated figures or puppets. Integral skin foam combines a firm exterior with a spongy interior — a very efficient solution for props that need to withstand impacts on set.

High-density EVA foam for armor and props

High-density EVA foam is the go-to material for building armor, weapons and lightweight prop accessories. It can be cut with a craft knife, thermoformed with a heat gun, bonded with contact adhesive and accepts any type of paint or finishing vinyl. Available in sheets of various thicknesses and colors, and in Foam Clay format for adding details and fillings by hand.

EVA profiles and accessories for detailing

Pre-made EVA profiles simplify adding ribs, trims, pipes and edges without needing to cut and glue strips. Combined with magnetic clasps, they let you build modular armor that the wearer can put on and take off quickly on set or on the runway.

Worbla thermoplastics for detailing and structures

Thermoplastics in the Worbla range are activated with heat, shaped by hand in seconds and harden as they cool with no catalysts or molds needed. They are reusable, self-adhesive between layers and can be painted directly after priming. They are the ideal complement to EVA foam for adding relief, inlays and fine details to high-resolution props.

Finishes and paints for props

The surface finish determines whether the prop convinces on camera. Liquid vinyl in a spray can adheres to EVA, Worbla and resin without cracking, and can be peeled off for repainting. Silicone paint lets you color prosthetics and soft pieces with a result that moves and stretches along with the base material.

Silicones for special effects and soft pieces

Props that need to imitate skin, flesh or organic tissue require platinum silicones specially formulated to reproduce the texture and movement of the original material. Combined with the right deadener, they let you fine-tune the hardness of the final piece very precisely.

Not sure which material to use? Get in touch with the Feroca technical team before you place your order. We'll analyze your project and recommend the best combination of materials for the result you're looking for.

Quick material guide by prop type

Prop type Recommended mold Casting material / structure Finish
Rigid weapon (sword, axe, gun) EASYL 3520 or PlatSil Gel-25 EasyFlo 120 (rotocasting) + PolyFoam R2 (fill) FullDip Metalizados or Colores Sólidos
Lightweight armor FRC FOAM GRIS/NEGRA 5–10 mm + Worbla's Finest Art (details) FullDip + EVA Contact Pro
Soft organic prop (flesh, tentacle) EASYPLAT MOLD-40 EasyGel FX00 + Gloomer Deadener Plat-Paint New - Base de Pintura de Silicona
Glass or water prop PlatSil SiliGlass or Easy Crystal No additional finish needed
Decorative figure (sculpture, mask) Silastic 3481 or EASYL Brushable EASYFOAM 300 (rigid) or EasyFlo 60 (white) Acrylic paint + FullDip Brillo y Especiales

Frequently asked questions about props and set dressing

Which silicone is best for making a mold of a prop with lots of undercuts?

For geometries with pronounced undercuts — handles, raised details, organic shapes — you need a very soft and elastic silicone that can be demolded without tearing. EASYL 3520 (Shore A20) and PlatSil Gel-10 (Shore A10) are the most suitable options. If the piece is also large and you need to brush the silicone on in several layers, EASYL Brushable (thixotropic) prevents the material from running before it cures.

Which resin should I use if I want a lightweight prop that can take hits on set?

The most common combination is rotocasting with EasyFlo 120 — which cures semi-rigid and absorbs impacts without chipping — followed by an interior fill with PolyFoam R2 or EASYFOAM 300 to add volume without adding weight. If the prop needs to float or weight is critical, Lik-Wood is a very low-density alternative.

Can I use EVA foam without a mold?

Yes. High-density FRC FOAM EVA foam is worked directly with a craft knife, heat gun and sander. No mold needed: you cut the shape, heat it to curve it and join it with EVA Contact Pro. For adding fine details by hand, EVA AIR Foam Clay can be modeled like clay, air-dries in 24–48 h and can be sanded and painted without cracking.

How do I paint an EVA or Worbla prop to make it look like metal?

First apply a spray primer (acrylic or rubber-based) to seal the foam's pores. Then use FullDip Liquid Vinyl - Metalizados in several thin coats. The vinyl stays flexible, doesn't crack when the piece bends and, if you need to change the color, you simply peel it off and repaint. For special effects like chameleon or candy finishes, apply the FullDip Camaleón or FullDip Candy ranges over a black base coat.

Which silicone should I use for a prop that needs to imitate human skin?

The silicones in the EasyGel FX range are specifically formulated for this purpose. EasyGel FX00 (Shore 00-30) is the softest and best reproduces the movement of skin. You can soften it further with Gloomer Deadener for particularly soft areas. To color the result, use Plat-Paint New - Base de Pintura de Silicona, which stretches with the piece without cracking.

Are Worbla thermoplastics compatible with EVA foam?

Yes. Worbla bonds directly to EVA foam when both materials are warm. The usual technique is to heat the Worbla with a heat gun and press it onto the EVA surface: the thermoplastic's natural adhesive creates a solid bond without needing any glue. It's the fastest way to add relief work, runes, decorative hinges or any three-dimensional detail to an EVA armor piece.

Product added to wishlist
Product added to compare.

Cookies on this site are used to personalise content and ads to deliver social media features and to analyse traffic. We also share information about your use of the site with our social media partners for advertising, personalisation and web analytics.. More information.