Acrylic resin: uses, advantages and applications in scenography and model making

Acrylic resin is one of the most versatile materials for model making and scenography: it doesn't smell, it's non-toxic, cleans with just water and produces hard, lightweight pieces without shrinkage. If you're looking for a sustainable alternative to polyester or polyurethane resins for working at home or in a workshop without forced ventilation, acrylic resin is the most comfortable and safe option on the market.

Advantages of acrylic resin

• Odorless and non-toxic — you can work indoors without a vapor mask or forced extraction.
• Sustainable — water-based with less environmental impact than solvent-based resins.
• No shrinkage — the final piece maintains exactly the dimensions of the mold, without loss.
• Tintable with acrylics — being white, it accepts any acrylic paint directly in the mix.
• Easy cleaning — brushes, stirring sticks and containers clean with water before curing.
• Carvable and sandable — once cured it behaves like plaster: you can refine with a cutter or fine-grit sandpaper.
• Fast curing — around 30 minutes at room temperature; extendable with retarder for large pieces.

Main uses

Scenography and model making

In scenography, acrylic resin is mainly used for casting inside molds to create rocks, terrain, ruins and architectural elements. Its low viscosity means it reaches all the nooks without leaving bubbles, and the result is a solid, lightweight piece ready to paint with acrylics without any previous priming. For pieces with fine detail, a brush pass over the mold surface before casting ensures no gaps are left uncovered.

Sculpture and figure reproduction

To reproduce figures, miniatures or relief sculptures, acrylic resin is applied in layers with a short-bristle brush, ensuring the first layer covers well all the interior geometry of the mold. Since it doesn't need release agent in silicone molds, the process is cleaner and faster. Once cool, the piece is completely cured and demolds effortlessly.

Fiberglass lamination

When the piece needs greater structural rigidity or impact resistance, acrylic resin is combined with fiberglass in pieces of approximately 5 × 5 cm. The procedure is the same as classic lamination: apply a layer of resin, add the fiberglass pieces and saturate well with the brush, repeating the process until reaching the desired thickness. To increase weight or solidity it's preferable to add more fiber layers than mixing mineral fillers, as fillers can alter the mix cohesion.

How to use it

1. Weigh the components — the ratio is 100 g of liquid base per 250 g of powder, always by weight. Use a precision scale.
2. Add powder to liquid — sprinkle it little by little with gentle taps to avoid dust rising and prevent lumps forming.
3. Mix manually first — stir with a stick until the powder is damp before using the electric mixer. This prevents dry powder from jumping out.
4. Homogenize with drill mixer — about 30-60 seconds at medium speed until you get a uniform cream without lumps.
5. Tint if necessary — add acrylic paint directly to the mix and stir before pouring.
6. Apply to mold with brush — cover the entire surface with the first layer; then pour the rest of the mix and spread with the brush to eliminate any air pockets.
7. Incorporate fiberglass if using — place the pieces on the wet resin and saturate well with the brush. Repeat layers according to the necessary thickness.
8. Wait for curing — when the piece is cool to the touch (approximately 30 min) it's ready to demold. If you're going to paint it, let it rest 2-3 more hours to release all residual moisture.
9. Finish the piece — remove flash with cutter or scissors. You can sand it by hand or with fine-grit sandpaper at low speeds.

Frequently asked questions